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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.